Submitted by Mike Siemsen on Mon, 05/25/2009 - 20:53
No man is an island
No man is an island entire of itself; every man
is a piece of the continent, a part of the main;
if a clod be washed away by the sea, Europe
is the less, as well as if a promontory were, as
well as any manner of thy friends or of thine
own were; any man's death diminishes me,
because I am involved in mankind.
And therefore never send to know for whom
the bell tolls; it tolls for thee.
Submitted by Mike Siemsen on Mon, 04/20/2009 - 22:06
I spray a lot of my finishes, stains, dyes, lacquer and shellac all go
through guns in my makeshift spray booth. I use an inexpensive Harbor Freight
HVLP conversion gun (item # 43430) which I was happy enough with until I was
introduced to a new product at a Minnesota Woodworkers Guild Meeting. The PPS
system made my old cup obsolete. My gun is still good to go with the addition of
an adapter(#2) provided by John Zoia, the 3M rep.
Submitted by Mike Siemsen on Sat, 02/14/2009 - 22:39
During the course of the Windsor chair class we needed to make some 11/16
round tenons on the bow for the back of the chair. We decided to tune up some
hollow augers and give them a try. You start with a spoke pointer (also called a
fore auger), a cone shaped device that shapes the end of a square piece of wood
to a cone. This gives you a round place to start your hollow auger from. Then
turning the auger the same way as you would a regular auger bit you make a round
tenon. The cutter at the end of the auger works somewhat like a block plane on
end grain. We tried out a couple of different ones we had on hand. I find these
an interesting tool. At one time they were fairly common because every wheel had
wooden spokes in it.
Submitted by Mike Siemsen on Sat, 02/14/2009 - 21:14
The next two weekends found us shaping seats and spindles, drilling holes in
the seat and putting in legs, bows and spindles. Let it suffice to say there are
many holes in a chair set at odd angles and not a square place to measure from!
There are several tricks, some involving lasers and mirrors and others just good
old eyeballing to get the job done. Once the parts were glued and wedged in
place the chair became a ridgid, strong and beautiful structure. I must admit
that I got so involved in making the chair that I forgot to photograph on the
Submitted by Mike Siemsen on Sun, 01/25/2009 - 21:56
Our Windsor chair class got off to a good start this weekend. Spindles and
stretchers have been turned for the base. We were able to rive out the bows
clean them up and get them steam bent. We also split out the spindles for the
backs and got a good start on shaping them. Next weekend we will shape the seats
and assemble the base or „stool“. It has been a bit of work, but great fun,
making piles of shavings. It will be neat to see maple, pine and oak join
together to make a great chair.
Submitted by Mike Siemsen on Thu, 01/15/2009 - 21:50
I installed a tray under the bench by attaching a ledger flush with the
inside bottom of the stretchers. I laid boards across the stretchers leaving
about a half of an inch for expansion. I tacked a strip in above the boards to
hold them in. This will make it easy to remove the boards should the need arise
which it may if I find the tray fills up with too much trash. I am thinking it
will be handy for storing tools while on the road doing demos. The top was
cupping up a bit. I installed a few screws that held a bit more than the pocket
screws in the bearers and that pulled it back down. I screwed right down
through the top.
Submitted by Mike Siemsen on Wed, 12/31/2008 - 13:03
When I started out I had a laundry list of things I wanted this bench to
do. It does not disappoint! The wooden vise works well and switches easily from
left to right by unscrewing the screw and screwing it in to the other side. The
bench is indeed stout and solid to work on and it is still not to heavy to lift
into the van. The total cost was less than $150 so it was inexpensive and it
looks like the picture! When Dean and I were first discussing the design we
talked about gluing up the top and designing for wood movement. I decided to
not glue the top planks together.
Submitted by Mike Siemsen on Wed, 12/31/2008 - 12:40
After jointing the top of the side boards straight with a #8 plane we applied
glue to the edge and about 6 inches in on the transverse bearers keeping glue
well away from the openings for the planing stops. With the planing stops
installed in the tops we set the tops in place using the planing stops to align
themselves to their openings. We then clamped the top in place and installed
screws through the transverse bearers. We cleaned up the shop and ate some lunch
while the glue set for 2 1/2 hours.
Submitted by Mike Siemsen on Wed, 12/31/2008 - 12:09
Once we had all of the holes bored in the side boards we attached them to the
legs with glue and screws. Then we fitted the vise nut and guide tube assembly
to the bench using the planing stops as spacers. We also installed a block
between the planing stops to aid as a guide and we installed the transverse
bearers. We are now ready to chop the mortises for the guide bar in the side
boards and the planing stops in the top.